The Benefits Of Strength Training For Mountaineers

Inside we explore the fantastic benefits strength training can provide and why it is essential in your training for mountaineering. 

Traditionally, strength training has been overlooked in the mountaineering world. And in my opinion, it is probably the most misunderstood, undervalued and misapplied method of training out there for mountaineers. But if done right, it has some absolutely amazing benefits for you in both your training and your time on the mountain.
 
This episode with explores 4 significant benefits of strength training for a mountaineer, plus the science to back it up (all studies mentioned are linked in the blog article below). 
 
You will learn:

• Why strength training can be considered the single best thing you can do to prevent injury (both in your training and while on the mountain)
• How strength training can affect your energy output while on the mountain
• How strength training can (theoretically) help you perform better at high altitude
• What military studies show us in regards to strength training and hiking speed
• How strength training can make every step or move easier on the mountain
• The often overlooked (but critical!) aspect of mental strength, which strength training can help a mountaineer with
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​Strength Training: Why It Is Crucial For Mountaineers

It is my firm belief that every mountaineer should be doing strength training in their regular weekly routine.

This should be done in their off-season. In their early preparations. In their peak phase. From start to finish of their training plan (aside from their taper) strength training should be seen.

But when it comes to strength training for mountaineers, it all too often gets both overlooked and misapplied and one of my missions in life, and through Summit Strength, is to change that.

So today I want to explore why I believe in this so strongly and why I am so adamant about introducing proper strength work into mountaineering preparation.

Strength training for mountaineers originally hit the 'mainstream' through the guys at Uphill Athlete in Training for the New Alpinism.

They did a great job introducing the concept to mountaineers (who traditionally avoided strength training completely).

But in all honesty, they only scratched the surface.

There is so much more to it. So much that most mountaineers still do not understand.

Hopefully, by the end of this read, you will have a better understanding of why it can be so valuable to help you in both your training and in the mountains.

Traditionally, endurance athletes have avoided resistance training.

The thinking goes"

"If you want endurance, you must only do endless hours of endurance work."

And yes, an endurance athlete (which a mountaineer is) should prioritise endurance work (e.g. aerobic training).

But to get the BEST results, solely doing this is not the best approach.

Strength training is incredible for endurance performance and for mountaineering.

There are four major benefits which we will explore today:

1. Injury prevention
2. Movement economy
3. Hiking speed
4. Strength reserve
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Plus one extra bonus benefit that is rarely talked about but enormously important.
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​Benefit #1: Injury Prevention For Mountaineers

So many mountaineers struggle with injuries...

Acute injuries such as ankle sprains and muscle strains. Overuse injuries like plantar fasciitis, shin splints and hikers'/runners' knee.

These are a plague in the mountaineering community.

Strength training has been shown to be the single best thing you can do to prevent and manage both acute and overuse injuries.

This might sound like a bold statement. But it is one backed by enormous evidence.

A massive scientific review looked at data from twenty-five trials with over twenty-six thousand participants and over three thousand injuries.

They compared:

• Stretching
• Proprioception and balance work
• Strength training
  
  

Their conclusion was:

"Strength training reduced sports injuries by up to one third and overuse injuries by one half."

This is HUGE.​

And this fact alone should get every mountaineer serious about their strength development. 

​Benefit Two: Strength Training Improves Movement Economy

Movement economy is the oxygen required at any given submaximal pace.

In simpler terms: how much energy you use each step.

In practice, if you can improve your movement economy, you can delay fatigue and exhaustion.

You can go longer. Further, and suffer less. Very significant for anyone in the mountains (and, potentially, even mroe so for any mountaineer going to high altitude). 
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There are no mountaineering-specific studies on this (that I am aware of).

But the research on running is very strong (and I am confident in the crossover).

A review of sixteen studies found that heavy resistance training and explosive training significantly improved running economy.

Improvements showed up in only a few weeks.

Longer programs created even larger improvements.​

Less energy is spent per step. Less fatigue. Incredibly valuable for long days and weeks on the mountain.
​

Benefit #3: Strength Training Improves Hiking Speed Under Load

Most mountaineers spend long hours hiking with heavy packs.

Being able to move faster with less effort is priceless.

A review of ten military studies looked at load carriage and the best ways to train for it.

The clear winner: combining aerobic training with resistance training as well as progressive heavy pack hiking. ​

Together, these three methods created large improvements in hiking speed with a pack.
​

Benefit Four: Strength Reserve

This concept comes from the Uphill Athlete guys.

Strength reserve is the difference between your maximal strength and the strength required for a given task.

Imagine every step on the mountain requires 30% of your strength (a random number, but I am just making a point).

If each step took this much effort, you would fatigue quickly. And you would not have a good time.

Then imagine you spend eight weeks doing smart strength training. And you climbed the mountain again. And this time, each step only required 15% of your strength.

You would last longer. You would move faster. Everything would feel easier. Your confidence and enjoyment would skyrocket.​

This applies to climbing as well. Upper body strength reserve matters just as much.

​Benefit Five: Confidence

Anyone who has ever followed a consistent strength training program will understand the incredible confidence you gain from just feeling strong.

There is no scientific measurement for this but anyone who has followed a strength training program consistently for a number of month knows this feeling. 

Feeling strong builds confidence. Confidence builds mental resilience. Mental resilience is crucial in mountaineering.

This may sound a bit abstract, but it matters more than many people first consider.

A Final Important Point

Strength training can be incredibly beneficial for any mountaineer.

But unlocking these benefits does not come from a few random exercises thrown together each day...

It comes from a structured, progressive and consistent strength training program (ideally designed around you, your body, your needs and your specific goals).

It should cover:

1. A mix of maximal strength and muscular endurance (both are incredibly useful for mountaineers)
2. The entire body (making sure you train the body as a whole, not just certain areas)
3. Progressive overload (a crucial principle of strength development)

If you have never followed a strength training program for your mountaineering, now is the time.

Reach out to a coach. Get an expert in your corner. And with a bit of effort, and some consistency over the weeks, you will be amazed at how effective it can be for your mountaineering (and your life).

Yours in adventure,

Rowan 

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